Bahawalpur

In May, after receiving my results, I took a moment to reflect on how demanding the past four years had been. Studying dentistry is no small feat, and as I looked back, I found myself yearning for open skies and fresh, invigorating air. It’s often said that the universe listens, and in my case, it certainly did.

In June, I was presented with an unexpected opportunity to travel to Bahawalpur, a city in South Punjab, Pakistan. Admittedly, I didn’t know what to expect. Bahawalpur isn’t typically on the radar of most travelers, especially during the sweltering summer months. Despite being rich in culture and history, it remains relatively undiscovered. However, I couldn’t be more grateful that fate brought me to this hidden gem.

Over the course of a two-week stay, I found Bahawalpur to be a city with a calm, peaceful vibe, free from the overwhelming hustle and bustle of larger cities. The locals were incredibly warm, kind, and always willing to help. Although the days were undeniably hot, the evenings brought a welcome breeze, making them quite pleasant. I was pleasantly surprised by how clean and well-maintained the city is.

Like any enthusiastic traveler, I turned to Google to search for "things to do in Bahawalpur." To my delight, the search results revealed a variety of attractions—palaces, forts, mosques, and eateries—showing that Bahawalpur has much to offer.

Noor Mahal

One of the most memorable moments of my trip was my visit to Noor Mahal. Seeing this architectural marvel for the first time left me truly awestruck. Built in 1872 for the Nawabs of Bahawalpur, Noor Mahal’s intricate design and grand structure are a testament to the skill of its builders, who created such a masterpiece without the aid of modern technology. Commissioned by Nawab Sadiq Khan IV for his wife, Noor, the palace is steeped in history. According to legend, Noor only stayed in the palace for one night, as the view from her balcony of a nearby graveyard made her uncomfortable.

Bahawalpur may not be the most famous destination, but it’s certainly one worth discovering. Whether you’re drawn by its historical landmarks, cultural richness, or simply its serene atmosphere, Bahawalpur is a city that deserves a place on every traveler’s itinerary.

That evening, as I returned home, I knew I had to explore all the other mahals. Noor Mahal had captivated me at first sight, and by then, it was clear that this city held far more treasures than what initially met the eye. Bahawalpur, the city of nawabs, had started to grow on me—the tranquility, the soothing air, everything felt like exactly what I needed at that moment.

The next day, my sister and I set out to discover the renowned bazaars of Bahawalpur. These local markets are celebrated for their exquisite thread work, intricate Mukesh embroidery (a technique that twists thin metal threads into fabric patterns), and ethnic jewelry available at prices significantly lower than those in the bigger cities. With excitement in our hearts, we headed to Siraapa Bazaar. I could hardly believe it when I heard the prices of the ethnic jewelry pieces—items that would cost a fortune online were being sold at a fraction of the price here. I knew I had found my favorite spot, but little did I know, the best was yet to come!

We indulged in a serious shopping spree and soon realized we were starving. Craving something delicious, we decided to go for gol gappay. For those unfamiliar, gol gappay—also widely known as pani puri—are a beloved street food in Pakistan. They consist of deep-fried, hollow, spherical shells filled with a mouthwatering mixture of diced potatoes, onions, peas, and chickpeas, often enhanced with tamarind chutney, chili powder, or chaat masala.

These gol gappay were the best I’ve ever tasted. They were so incredible that before heading back to Pindi, we made a special trip to the famous Siraapa Bazaar just to savor these heavenly treats one more time.

In the days that followed, I had an ambitious itinerary. Bahawalpur, often dubbed the "City of Palaces," boasts numerous sites that mirror the grandeur of its royal architecture. My next destination was Gulzar Mahal—a must-visit according to nearly everyone I asked. For many locals, Gulzar Mahal is the undisputed favorite, and I was eager to see why.

Gulzar Mahal: Picture by Yaarahmadd

Adding to my curiosity was the fact that Gulzar Mahal served as a stunning backdrop for the popular Pakistani drama "Khuda Aur Mohabbat." As soon as I arrived, I was captivated once again by the palace’s majestic beauty. Gulzar Mahal exudes a modern elegance that instantly resonated with me. As I explored its majestic grounds, I felt a profound sense of peace, liberation, and pure joy. The beauty of Gulzar Mahal is truly breathtaking—wandering through it was like being a kid in a candy store. The grand doors, the intricately designed walls, and the magnificent staircases all combined to create an atmosphere that was nothing short of awe-inspiring. Every detail seemed to echo the grandeur and history that makes this palace a true architectural gem.

As I headed home, a silent prayer crossed my lips: "Allah, please let me return here." Deep down, I felt a profound pride in the rich history and culture of our country, tinged with a bit of melancholy over how underappreciated and undiscovered it remains.

Every evening, we took long walks, and each night, we drove out for soda. Bahawalpur gradually won me over like no other city had. The sky felt different here; the quiet streets seemed to know how to love and embrace, and I found myself reciprocating that affection.

Darbar Mahal (Palace), Bahawalpur: Picture by Maria Ahmed

When Nawab Sadiq IV's wife chose not to live in the magnificent Noor Mahal, she opted instead for the stunning Darbar Mahal—my next destination. Unlike the other palaces, Darbar Mahal is part of the Bahawalgarh Palace Complex. Within this complex, directly across from Darbar Mahal, are Nishat Mahal and Farrukh Mahal, both used by the army and closed to the public.

Darbar Mahal, built primarily from red bricks, is a marvel of architectural beauty. Completed in 1905, it exudes a regal ambiance that transports you back in time.

As my departure loomed, I recalled reading that this city is blessed by Sufi Khwaja Ghulam Farid. When the Nawab sought his blessings, he was told that people would come to Bahawalpur, thinking they were entering a desert (as the city is surrounded by the Cholistan Desert), but they would leave in tears, not wanting to part with this place.

And indeed, when it was time for me to leave, I felt profoundly changed. Bahawalpur is one of Pakistan's most underrated cities—its culture and history deserve far more recognition. The city of nawabs left a lasting impression on me, and I fell deeply in love with it.

Written by: Attya Tariq

Attya Tariq is a passionate traveler and an avid reader with an insatiable curiosity for new experiences. When she's not exploring new destinations, she practices as a dentist, balancing her love for travel with a professional career.

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Untouched beauty: my unforgettable Pakistan trip