Pakistan wasn’t on my list of must-see countries; it’s now on my can’t-wait-to-go-back places!  There were unexpected surprises everywhere I went – we, in the US, have a very limited perception of this stunningly beautiful and charming country. 

I landed in Lahore, sadly in the wee hours of the morning so couldn’t see my surroundings.  Day one took me to the Walled City with a bustling market, a visit to the Wazir Khan Mosque, then to the Lahore Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, that also houses a Sikh gurdwara. Later after the Badshahi Mosque, I met with three transgender people for a conversation about the estimated 40,000 transgenders who live in Lahore. Pakistan passed a law in 2018 protecting transgenders…who would have guessed?  Sadly a conservative group is trying to overturn that law but generally life is better without as much harassment.  After that fascinating conversation, we went to a small music shop where the owner and some of his relatives played the harmonium, a new instrument to me and guitar. The street scenes of Lahore are charming!

Day two in Lahore took me to Shalimar Gardens, Akbari Sarai, and Jahangir’s Tomb, which is considered to be the second most beautiful building after the Taj Mahal.  En route, we passed a wrestling place where I had just missed the morning “mud wrestling” practice. It’s similar to Olympic wrestling but done on dirt.  Several of the wrestlers were nice to stay and tell me about their sport, diet and training, even inviting me to breakfast.

Driving mostly on a 6-lane highway then a 10-lane modern highway into Islamabad, I was surprised the infrastructure was as good as it was.  There are older vehicles but also new cars and even Toyota Prius hybrid cars. A quick overnight and early morning flight over incredible snow-covered mountain peaks to Gilgit would be the start of my outdoor adventures.

Fairy Meadows – what an adventure! The only way up is in a jeep on the scariest drive I’ve ever taken – 2 to 2 1/2 hours of S-curves on a one-lane rocky road with no guard rails and often a sheer drop down.  Under my breath, I invoked the names of several deities, cursed, and silently screamed so as not to startle the driver. You’ll thank me later tip: don’t sit cliff-side down – sit behind the diver on the way up, next to him on the way down for your sanity!  Oh yeah, you may encounter another jeep that requires someone to reverse around a perilous curve…..and more silent WTFs.

At Tattu (or Tato) village, your hike will begin. There is a restaurant, small shop and toilet before you head out.  It’s a tough hike due to the altitude – starting around 8,500’ to 10,800’ in about a 5 kilometers. You can also ride a horse up.  The payoff is worth the difficulty!  Stunning views of Nanga Parbat, the 9th highest peak in the world and the 2nd highest after K2 in Pakistan.  Simply breathtaking!  The host at Raikot Serai is friendly and welcoming; the cabins are quite rustic.  The Wander will make things more comfortable for their guests. We left the next day but one can make a 4-hour hike to Nanga Parbat base camp if staying another day.  I’ve had 7 knee surgeries so I took a horse down as downhill is far more painful than hiking up. On horseback looking down, I have to say I was impressed with myself that I was able to hike up that trail.

We stayed in Hunza for the Altit Fort and more outdoor activities including suspension bridge, zip line, Passu Cones, Ondra Poygah and Attabad lake.  We stopped in at a music school by the Altit Fort where a couple of students played another new instrument to me, the rubbab, which I loved.  We also visited two women’s cooperatives, owned and run by women – one a furniture builder and the other for carpet weaving.  Both train younger women who want economic independence.  I met with a Shaman in Hunza who explained how he communicates with fairies and what he does for those needing help.  He was one of the few people I needed a translator for.

Flying into the Gilgit-Baltistan region can be “iffy” due to weather. Our flight back to Islamabad was cancelled so we had to make the 12-hour drive back on the Karakorum Highway, KKH, which turned into 15 hours due to rock slides, Chinese convoys and stalled trucks.  The Wander hired a Toyota SUV and driver who makes that drive almost daily.  Part of the drive is beautiful with one side mountains and the Indus River on the other side. This might be a good time to mention Pakistani truck art – a truly unique art form taken to extremes!  Driving in Pakistan is like having a mobile art gallery that never ends.

Due to our losing a day from the 15-hour drive, there were things I didn’t get to do that I really wanted to do.  My last day, I did get to another UNESCO World Heritage site of Taxila, an important center of Buddhism….not usually associated with Pakistan.  Alexander the Great also has a history at Taxila as the Greeks influenced culture and architecture there.

There are beautiful hotels throughout Pakistan as well as a few lovely smaller boutique properties.  I’ve given The Wander my feedback, some I’ve enthusiastically recommended, others crossed off for US and Canadian visitors.  Service at some hotels and restaurants can be basic.

Food is similar to that of India with different spices.  Although vegetarianism isn’t “a thing” there, it was easy enough for me to eat well as a vegetarian, even getting tofu in Islamabad.  Ice cream and delicious bakeries abound!  I won’t say where, but I was served locally brewed “Hunza water” from mulberries and wine from grapes…..they have a ways to go.  At hotels, foreigners can order wine, beer and liquor.

I found the people quite friendly and curious.  Those who didn’t greet me with a smile did smile back if I smiled first.  Lots of people asked to have their photo taken with me. On every flight men put my luggage in overhead and took it out.  At the airports, men and women approached me to ask if I knew how their boarding worked, if I had someone to meet me, where was I going, etc.  Impromptu chats with schoolgirls in their uniforms, shopkeepers, and hikers happened everywhere.  Shopkeepers insisted I taste something! I have invitations to stay in people’s homes when I come back – lovely, generous people everywhere we went.  English is widely spoken and taught in school so it’s easy to chat with Pakistanis.

The Wander, founded and owned by two Pakistani men who were both educated in the States, one on a Fulbright scholarship and one for his Master’s degree. One learned the tourism trade with the largest DMC in Pakistan, the other has traveled to over 70 countries.  Together they bring their love of Pakistan, passion for adventure, commitment to authentic experiences and determination to bring fresh ideas for exploring Pakistan. The Wander delivers an exceptional Pakistan experience!

kiki paris – june, 2023